Category Archives: P38 camper

BMW M57 & M57N deisel engine leak off pipe upgrade

The leak off pipe on the BMW diesel is prone to breaking when moved or even just when driving, the plastic gets brittle 

the upgrade kit from here 
BMW leakoff kit on ebay

this is a HD brass kit but with one issue, the pipe they supply is rubbish and soon starts to leak after getting warm a few times, the solution is to use Gates 3.2mm pipe and some Mikalor spring clips like this..

This is the right way and last for whatever abuse you give it.

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Piss easy Pistes du Alpes part 2

cute chapel in the gorges at a wild campsite

Met these guys from Belgium while off roading near the col de jolie in the Alpes, nice chat at night until a miserable walker shouted for us to be quiet at 10pm because they had to get up at 6am to trudge around in circles on the hillside.

amazing how much even the Belgiums despise the EU, everyone they knew was in full agreement that the EU is not a democracy….she was an investigative journalist!! shows just what the EU is doing for Germany’s great plans of world domination…maybe 🙂

amazing gorge de frie near Annency.

Milly fills up her super tanker of a donkey she paid 55€ to walk around a town, no experienced ride for her 🙁 very angry and upset, the owners got told short and shrift.

amazing gorge de frie near Annency.

One happy girl gets to go back and ride on Its a small world after the disappointment of the 2017 visit

Dragons and castles at Disneyland

incredible mr jones
Mr and Mrs Incredible pose in front of a poster of a fat bloke and his missus

Le Havre wild camping site
Stairway to heaven on a busy wild camp site next to the English channel just north of Le Havre, by Etretat

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Tough 4×4 Pistes du Alpes -> or…….

or how we met a granny in a Mk6 Ford Fiesta on the top of one of Frances most dangerous roads .

some photos, not many words

range rover overlander 4x4 on portsmouth ferry
Portsmouth ferry to Le Havre

range rover overlander wild camping
Wild camping on the Loire

real disney castle in Loire france, overland wild camping
Chateau D’Usse on the Loire valley, a very pretty castle apparently on of the inspirations for the Disney Castle

overland wild camping
chateau d’usse from the wild camping track

I now know where Thomas the tank engine takes his summer holidays 🙂

Tiger tank randomly at a picnic site in France

route 99 bike only camping in France
we found a Biker only campsite that had live music on at night, we convinced the owner to allow us to stay on the field opposite, great night, fantastic place

paragliders on the Le Puy volcanos
paragliders on the Le Puy volcanos

after the wheel bearing change we spent the afternoon in Moustiers Sainte Marie

overland wild camping Chateau de Val
Wild camping on the Dordogne the view was amazing day and night, Chateau de Val lit up just for us

Rock Arch on the Ardeche valley

Lavender fields in the Verdon region

wooden roofs and quaint villages

Wild camping in the gorge sur Meouge by a river , lots of firewood and no one around.

top of the alps

looking for Fruit and Lorna climbing the cliffs of Verdon

Freddy flintstone parked his car on the grass 🙂

col du parpaillon tunnel, very interesting tunnel, why? you will to go to find out

Lunch break at 6000 ft on the Col de Parpaillon#

overland wild camp at abandonded fort in France
we did some exploring of abandoned forts, the entrances were not to Milly’s liking

overland camper at unusual dam
I am not sure the French understand how a dam works, great old military road , very pretty

colle assietta finestre easy track
this was meant to be a tough, experts only track, the tarmac in the background was the roughest bit of the entire track 🙁

top of the alps

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Last stop Essoauira. then straight on the motorway all the way back to J17 :-(

To make sure the trip ended well and just in case living in a small 4×4 for 4 weeks had proved hell.

I had quietly booked a 5 star spa hotel adjacent to the walled medina. However living in the Tardis works so well ,it gets better every time we use it and with the minor list of fixes/upgrades sorted when we get home it will be excellent for long periods or maybe indefinitely and we both felt guilty for abandoning our special truck to the hotel car park. They are strange things human emotions for inanimate objects.

I thought I would post some images of Essaouira for the family and friends, for the ones who have been here and the ones yet to visit. Easyjet fly twice a week from the UK for £35 one way ,that is cheaper than the taxi to the airport!!

The place has expanded its tourist flavour but at the moment not so much that it is destroyed the charm, The docks still sell every living(now dead) thing from the sea and the gulls and cats scrap over the entrails thrown on the floor, every alleyway now has a shop or restaurant with an impossible level of character and charm and unique style , a level that Disney could never achieve, couple this charm with a feeling of safety and a relaxed atmosphere makes Essaouira a destination that is a must for anyone wanting a genuine experience with the feel of the exoticswhile somehow feeling you are in a pirates of the Caribbean movie set. Even the touts selling ‘Space cakes ‘and a ‘good smoke’ appear to be from a Family movie, somehow being rebellious yet unthreatening and charming at the same time. I suppose it’s a sort of perfect puritanical middle class American image of the exotic , you know the boy/girl at school/college that is SO hot but is the local rebel yet  underneath they have a heart of gold type shit. I suppose this is the real metaphor for the current Essaouira experience..


It’s quiet here at this time the year (January) and rain is not unknown but the temperature is pleasant and sunny, even so in this quiet time we counted 4 bar/restaurants with live music ,we made our way down hauntingly amazing alleyways beside the fortified sea wall to have a pizza in the restaurant that we sat in 11 years ago while watching Ridley Scott film ‘The Kingdom of Heaven’ with the girls, Casablanca beer on tap made for a great night out. Some live Moroccan/Berbere music in a bar overlooking the main square and harbour finished the trip off just great.


In any other place the alleys of a unknown town are not the most relaxed places to be, but this is not the case in Essaouira


A small glimpse of a treasure to behold.

So we both agree until we are 80 years old and in a large plastic motorhome, or maybe a training session in a race car then we are done with Morocco for the coming years, the Tardis has more exciting places to take us.



Also I may be onto a real treasure maybe even a novel …

look at this customs building on the gates of the harbour, half way up is a cryptic symbol

Looks like a secret symbol of the Da Vinci code type, don’t ya think???


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Agadir is like any Spanish holiday town ,Easyjet fly from Manchester three time a week all year round for £160 return.. Hmmm.

We travelled north through Agadir for an alcohol restock ,this is a huge metropolitan town and greatly improved, in 2004 while doing the Plymouth-Dakar challenge with Chris and Sandra we camped just north of the city on the flat plateau that stretched for miles out towards the sea with hundreds of other motorhomes, now it’s all gone , vast new holiday resorts and a posh new roads are the signs of progress, all the plastic motorhomes are on huge campsites with water parks, quad bike hire and all the other normal holiday type stuff, the plastic motorhomes are driving down the road in two’s and three’s every few minutes there are thousands of them.

I suppose the new motorway that now reaches Agadir and the new dual carriageway that goes through Tisnit to Guelmin helps them all come and enjoy the winter sun.

Coast road to Essaouira.

We found a nook in the coast and camped with some surfer dudes for the night, then took the coast road to Essaouira, at the moment this road is track , some rough, some graded, so we saw no plastic motorhomes , we found an amazing fishing village down a really rough steep track.

It wasn’t me dad it was like that when I got here ….



And found skeletons hanging in trees !!!

Wrong turn!! maybe


then we got stopped by a tortoise crossing the road

why did the Tortoise cross the road?

Milly eligantly tries to save the tortoise from the wheels of doom.


On the Fort bou jerif road we got stopped by kissing rodents.



I suppose it better than when we had to wait for the duck getting raped when we were in Wales in 2016..


We arrived in Essaouira, the fact that Easyjet now fly direct to the new posh airport in town from the UK hasn’t changed it a bit….. OK, its heaving and every nook and cranny in the town is full of tourist tat there is lot’s of flat bloated tourist’s  munching through nasty Tajines and consuming Watney’s red barrel, cue Monty Python travel agents sketch. There are two huge 18 hole golf courses and we thought we had seen a lot of RR Evoques and new RR sport’s on our travels but it appears Essaouira residents have a liking for new Aston Martins we have seen three of them all on Moroccan plates!

off to the 5  star medina resort and Spa for a little late trip pampering for Milly and a steak and chips  in the souk.{when in Rome}

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