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December 2003-March 2004 

Winter route 2003-4

The Kalbarri Silverstream heads for the sunshine.

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               New livery-new name but same old bus!

 

While we had been away in Brazil the bus was sprayed silver.

Betchton leaving

Renamed 'Kalbarri Silverstream' it looked much smarter as we left Betchton to head south.

 

 

Driving through France the weather was appalling and we had to follow a snow plough as it cleared the road.

flooded campsite France

The rivers were overflowing and lots of towns and campsites in the south were under water.

 

 

  The weather had improved by the time we reached Morocco and when we  stopped for lunch at the motorway services near Rabat the sky was blue. 

Rabat motorway service

           Morocco would be our base for many weeks.

 

 At Eassouira we wandered around the old fishing port and studied the ancient art of building wooden boats.

Essouira boat builder

Then as the sun set we watched the seemingly chaotic departure of the fishing boats.

 

 

At an overnight stop at the campsite at Tiznit we were invited to join the ceremony to open the new municipal swimming pool. This smart new outdoor complex has replaced  the old football pitch where we stayed on our last visit.

The band entertained us as we waited in vain for the dignitaries to arrive.

 

The narrow road inland to Tafaroute climbs high over a pass and going down the other side, one of the bus rear air bags burst!

roadside repair in Morrocco

Luckily a nearby roadside mosque had a large parking area where we could fit a new one. The audience were amused but hospitable and even offered us lunch.

 The sunset at the campsite in Tafaroute turns the Anti Atlas mountains a deep red colour.

canpsite at Tafaroute

 

Out came the bikes and we spent two weeks exploring this lovely area.

down in the oasis

Down in this gorge the track ran along side the small river as it wound through the palm trees

 

It is the unusual rock formations that make this area unique.

Adagr blue rocks

These huge rocks at Adagr are just a few of many that have been painted in shades of blue and are outstanding.

 

Two enterprising brothers have restored the house of their grandfather.

 traditional house interior

 

We enjoyed the visit that gave us an insight into how the local people lived.

 

 

On Christmas Day Dot was trying to take waypoints along our route.

now a  Xmas day waypoint

She eventually found the old road to Agadir that wound across the hillside.

 

The view from the top of the hill was great.

 the old road to Agadir

Not all of Morocco is desert  and this hillside view looked more like Wales with sunshine.

 

These narrow streets were in the village of Idikle.

Idikle village

Fortunately a lady showed us the way around along an old donkey trail that led us across the hillside back to the main track

 

  A fort close to the oasis at Sidi Isni looked as though the French Foreign legion were still in residence.

Sidi Isni

montain sign post

We stopped to admire the art work on this sign post and along came a fellow traveller.

TTR and donkey

                               New Year celebrations.

 

A lovely old 100km track over the mountains to Tata has just been covered in tarmac. This is happening everywhere in Morocco as people get better vehicles they ask for smoother roads!

campsite at Tata

But it meant we could take the bus through the spectacular scenery.

 

 

On New Years Eve 2003 we made the long journey across the plains to Guelamin.

 Complex at  Aubynau

 Seeing a sign for a campsite we turned off the highway and pulled into a thermal baths complex at Aubynau.

 

A party was just about to start so we joined the other campers for a celebration meal in the hotel.

pool party New Year eve.

Then a sing song around the campfire before a candlelight midnight swim in the hot pool.

                               The Dakar arrives at Tan Tan

 

 On a windy plateau at the airfield the Dakar bivouac began to fill up as the competitors arrived. Colin McCrea was driving a Nissan with co-driver Tina Thoren.

dakar 2004 Mcrea Nissan

Here was a chance to get some more autographs on my copy of our book.

 

 

The Mitsubishi team drivers were having a meeting- Peterhansel would go on to take his first win in a car.

Dakar 2004 Mitsubishi team

We met up with the Rallyraid team members again and some of the other Brits.

Patsy Quick was in fine spirits and enjoying the KTM. Sadly she would be excluded a few days later on the long marathon stages.

Dakar 2004 USA team

It was good to see a team from the USA who were enjoying the Dakar challenge.

DakarTan Tan

Along with hundreds of others the Silverstream was parked alongside the bivouac.

                       Another event 'The Plymouth-Dakar'

coast at Tan Tan

The coast near Tan Tan had great tracks along the cliffs and we had a few days exploring on the bikes.

 

 Tan Tan ply-dak

One of the groups taking part in the charity drive from Plymouth to Dakar arrived at Tan Tan and we stopped to have a chat and wish them 'bonne route.'

dozer sand West Sahara

We followed the road south into the Western Sahara and had to wait while this sand dozer cleared the road.

                   Dots birthday at Layoune, Western Sahara

 

Along the coast south of Layoune we were alone on the camping Nil site waiting for the next group on the Plymouth-Dakar to arrive deliver birthday cards and presents.

Layoune Nil site

 

 

Sandra and Chris were in this first specially prepared Montego bought for £50 from the scrap yard.

Montego chris sandra

This was not quite the romantic honeymoon that Sandra had expected!

 

As Susan and Mike are more experienced in desert rallies they had installed plumbing on their Montego.

Montego Sue Bd

Next morning after a full English breakfast they roared off south on the long journey to Dakar.

 

Dot celebrated her 65th as we drove back along the coast and was delighted to find a use for the shipwreck symbol on the GPS.

shipwreck

 

More shipwrecks as we followed the coastal road to the old Spanish port of Sidi Ifni.

 e Western sahara shipwreck

After an overnight stop at the campsite right on the beach we drove to Tiznit and turned inland again.

 

This World Heritage site hill ksar at Ait Benhaddou has been used many times as a film set.

Ait Ben Haddou

The climb up to the top gave us good view.

 

                             Up into the High Atlas mountains.

 

The drive eastward was across the plain and over the high pass at Bachkoum.

pass at Bachkoum

 Up here there are fine views of the snow capped Atlas mountains on the horizon.

 

We made out base just near Tinehr at the superb Le Soleil campsite.

Le Soleil campsite Tinehr

 Out came the bikes and off we went to explore the Todra Gorge.

 

The road through the gorge is no longer a rough stoney track.

 Todra gorge

 We had 20kms of tarmac before we emerged out onto the high plain.

 

We went out for a look around to find out how we could safely make the long journey through the mountains. track in High Atlas mountains

The track across to the Dades Gorge is fantastic but without a fuel stop it would be impossible.

Then  fellow travellers were to provide the perfect solution.

 

 

At New Year we had been partying with Liz and Bill Thompson from Yorkshire who we met again at Tan Tan.

Quite by chance they arrived at our campsite and were keen to do some serious off-roading in their Mitsubishi 4x4.

Mitsubishi Todra

Sensibly they decided not to attempt the track on their own so we did a deal

They left camp 2 hours before us with a jerry can of  fuel on board. We all met up at the 2800 metres pass for lunch-refuelled the bikes and carried on together where the track was more tricky for a car.

 track lunch stop at pass

Then they drove on to find the main road while we turned around and enjoyed a fast ride along the stony trail arriving back at camp at sunset.

           Now it was time for some serious shopping!

 

The souk in Tinehr was full of small shops selling everything anyone could possibly need

Tinehr souk

-and a lot of rubbish no one could possibly want..

 

 

This carpet loom was one of many set up in a large communal house were the woman weave the intricate designs from memory using colourful cactus silk, camel hair and wool.

carpet loom

 

The salesman closed the deal and Bill had to visit the nearby cash machine.carpet sales

 Dot bought a small silk rug to hang on the wall but Liz wanted her carpet to enhance the wooden floor back home in Richmond.

 

It was time for us to start on the journey north along the Ziz valley and into the snow.

Azrou campsite

We stopped overnight at the ski resort of Azrou where every chimney and post has a storks nest.

 

butchers stalls

At Midelt we had stopped for supplies but decided not to buy any meat at these roadside shops.

As we drove north the fields and road side verges were full of freshly sown crops and wild flowers.

riding through blossom

The almond trees were in full bloom and spring had arrived in Morocco.

                     Along the mountain tracks in Spain.

 

Back in Spain we decided to stay a while at Orgiva, the gateway to the Alpujarre region.

 Orgiva view

Here we found a lovely new campsite set in an old olive grove with fine views of the town below.

campsite Orgiva

 Located between the high Sierra Nevada mountains and the Mediterranean coast, just to the east of the main route to Granada it is a perfect area for trail riding.

 

At this time of year the cold air falling from the snow covered mountains gets trapped in the deep valleys as the sun warms the air above.

Canar village

As we rode up the tracks behind Canar it felt like being in an aeroplane as we looked down onto the clouds.

 

This little bridge crossed a river deep in a ravine and the ride down had been easy.

Ravine bridge

However getting up the other steeper side was a bit more tricky. Jim had to push his KTM and my Yamaha up around sharp bends until we could get onto a track in the forest.

 

 

Travelling eastward we rode for almost 60kms without meeting anyone along a track that ran parallel to but higher up than the main road in the valley.

rocks above Niguelas

Not marked on the map it was just one of those lovely tracks you can find by chance.

 

Going in the other direction we visited Trevelez the highest village in Spain and found the centre full of coach loads of day trippers.

view villages Sierra Nevada

We escaped along another track to arrive at some other villages nestling under the rim of the mountains.

 

 

Our route continued back to the coast of Almeria and the awful sights of acres of plastic greenhouses. Here most of  the fruit and vegetables to supply the supermarkets in the north is grown in quick rotation. There is no countryside left to enjoy.

Cabo Gato lighthouse

The National Park at Cabo Gato is a protected area and this lighthouse is on a cliff surrounded by turquoise sea.

The coastline all along this park is unspoilt by development. Even at Las Negras the new properties are single story and the campsite is in a cleft in the hills right on the beach.coast Paraya

A lot of the tracks we had ridden four years ago had been tarmaced but we still managed to find a few new ones to explore.

 

This is the site of an old lead mine at La Roq and the workings were clear and for once the description was also in English.

Roq Lead mine

Now the villagers have turned their skills to growing exotic plants-a much healthier occupation.

 

               World Superbike and Enduro Championships.

 The weather was cold and windy up in Valencia for the first round of the 2004 World Superbike Championship. The current Champion Britains Neil Hogdson had gone to GP so all out hopes were on James Toseland.

lWSB media centre

We signed on as journalists and made ourselves comfortable in the media centre.

Dot was able to get close and personal with the action in the pits and on the starting grid. The boys back at home watching on TV were just a little bit envious of their mum.

WSB start grid

The first race was close and when Toseland stepped onto the top step of the podium with Walker on third we couldn't wait for race two to see if the Brits would be best.

 

Between races we wandered around the paddock and admired the many hospitality centres. Dot wanted a balcony and spiral staircase adding to our bus just like Foggies.

WSB FPR truck

The team were on a high as their riders finished the weekend with good results.

Toseland got second in race two and was very happy with his Ducati.

 

We had two weeks to wait down at Puerto Mazaron.

 big guns

We explored the coastal tracks and found a huge gun emplacement up on some cliffs.

castle at guns

We laughed at the cute Disney like barracks where the soldiers had lived.

 

 

From this vantage point we could see a great track snaking along the hillside.

guns bay

We stopped for a picnic and along came three German trail riders who were riding the same track towards the guns.

 

Back at the campsite we enjoyed many fine sunsets across the bay.

sunset Peurto Mazarron

This area is full of English and Germans who are living here in the warmth of southern Spain.

 

 

While out riding along the coastal track a lorry came along the beach road and dumped a load of rotten tomatoes.

goats tomatoes

 The goats immediately began to feast themselves.

 

 

We had met this French couple parked with their converted truck along the beach.

WEC hair cut.

When we arrived at Puerto Lumbreas for the Enduro they were waiting to give Jim a haircut.

 

This is a view of the paddock at the first round of the WEC.

nWEC paddock view

All the big teams were here and we met many old friends.

 

One of the special tests was just beside the start. The crowds were there to see their heroes perform.

WEC test 3 start

Young Ivan Cervantes and Dakar winner Nani Roma got the loudest cheers.

 

 

Our support was for David Knight having his first ride on the big KTM for a new British team D3. Justin the team boss waited at the end of every test to give Knighter his results.

WEC Knighter

He finished on the podium on both days-a great start. He would finish as runner up in his class and secure a factory ride for 2005.

                        Long drive home with a plaster cast.

 

While out on the test track Jim parted company with his KTM and the bike landed on his foot.

jim in plaster cast

A small bone broke and he was given this smart plaster cast at the local hospital.

There was no point going to the next round in Portugal so we set off north with Dot at the wheel and Jim demoted to navigator!

 

 Once we reached the coast in France we took a breather at St Nazaire.

 St naziare port

Dot was able to look around the German wartime submarine emplacements.

We were disappointed to find the new Queen Mary liner had already left the shipyard. But the children provided entertainment.

 

 

As we were catching the ferry from Caen we visited the museum at Arromanche where parts of the Mulberry harbour still lie in the sand 60 years after D-day.

Just a few weeks later the Queen would be here to take the salute from the veterans march past.

Winston Port Arromanche

 Jim enjoyed the visit to the Memorial- a museum to peace-apart from having to go around in a wheelchair.

--------Back to the UK to prepare for the trip across the pond to the USA -----

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