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Down into Mexico in 2006 

Mexico route map

SOUTH OF THE BORDER DOWN MEXICO WAY!

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               Another country and culture to explore.

No border formalities at Tecate to worry about as we crossed into the Mexican state of Baja California North.

Mexican border

Soon we were driving south along the Trans- Peninsular highway which goes right down to the tip.

 

Our first overnight top was in the large town of Ensenada.

Here we had to get our tourist visa and visit the supermarket.

 

A few pesetas changed hands at the Banjocito and we were legal, no documents, just insurance, needed for the motor home on the Baja.

 

 

 

 

This close to the USA the American influence was still evident.

 Ensenada campsite

The owner of the campground spoke English but he thought Wales was in British Colombia, Canada!

 

 

           Exploring the beaches and cacti of the Baja.

 

Soon we were enjoying a deserted campsite beside the Pacific ocean.

El Pabellon was perfect with soft sand, bright flowers and ocean breezes-well a gale really!

El Pebellan whale

It was here that we discovered that fellow travellers would be from Canada as Mexico is a favourite destination.

 

 

At first the scenery was not quite what we had expected with mountains and forests and lots of agriculture and odd shaped boojum trees.

Boojum trees

  However as we went further south and out across the salt flats at Guerro Negra we realised just how barren some parts can be.

 

This National Park protects an inland lagoon where thousands of whales spend the winter months. 

The females give birth in the warmer shallow water and prepare the young for the long journey north back to Alaska

.watching whales Baja

We chilled out, watched the whales and walked along the beach.

lagoon campsite on baja

 

 

Back to the main highway which wound through the palm oasis at San Ignacio and then crossed over to the other coast.

bananas and palms on Baja

Now we were on the Sea of Cortez and went into the small town of Santa Rosalia where we bought fresh fruit and vegetables at the market.

The 'world famous' bakery in town had good bread and cakes-French influence again.

 

This town is famous for its church designed by Eiffel (of the tower).

Santa Rosalia church

 A strange structure looking out of place as you would expect by this unusual architect.

Eiffels church at Santa Rosalia

 

  The Bahia Conception bay was our next idyllic campsite on a sand spit that went out to an island.

Bahia Conception

We decided to get the bikes out and explore the peninsular and go inland for a ride in the mountains. 

 The ride out along a sandy trail which wound through the cacti, over 110 varieties grow on the Baja.

cactii with cormorants

 Every tall one had a cormorant perched on the top, was great and we lunched on the beach.

amogst cactii

 

  Next day we set off inland over the hills- getting lost as we crossed streams and rivers trying to find the right track.

Dot in river

  Finally we had to return to the main one and go to San Isidrio a perfect palm oasis just as in North Africa.

.San_Isidro oasis

 

Purisima river oasis

At Publisima an old tarmac road comes up from the south and we found the garage!

petrol station at La Purisima

 Back along the nice stony track to our beach campsite.

It was at this idyllic almost free campsite where we met with the dreaded 'caravans' of American RV's.

Airstream caravan

While we had been away twenty two Airstreams trailers had arrived and the once quiet beach was now crowded-time to go!

We also met two cyclists from home who were on a trip around Mexico!

The nice old Spanish town of Loreto has an old mission and we explored the museum which traced the history of the town.

.Mission Nuesta Senora de Loreto

We sampled the local cuisine and got some exercise.

eating ice cream

 

 

Once again it was a dice with death as we tried to avoid the potholes, animals and dodge the buses as the highway crossed back into the centre.

cattle on road

At Cuidad Consitiution was pulled into Manfreds campsite just before the Airstreams caravan arrived.

 

The big dove statue at La Paz was at the gateway to the city and we stayed a few days enjoying the delights along the malecon.

La Paz repairs

Once again it was get out  and get under when a belt snapped on the main road in the city. Help came from a lovely young, just married, couple who took us to the motor factors to buy a new belt-

 thanks a million and hope your new life in Virginia is good.

So back to the Casa Blanca site in La Paz before going to the beach at Tecolete for a free night before getting onto the ferry across to the mainland

pelicans

 

Nothing much to do here but watch the pelicans diving for fish, enjoy the sunsets and stroll along the beach- again!

 

 

At the port of Pichilinque we had to organise the temporary import sticker for the bus-much smiling and laughing as the official tried to decide what make it was!

leaving the Baja

The five hours crossing on the Baja ferry boat was smooth and when we disembarked we pulled over to spend the night amongst the big trucks on the quayside in Topolobampo.

 

      At last the real Mexico and some very deep canyons!

 

 We based ourselves at the old agricultural town of El Fuerte on a nice shady campsite plagued by little black flies that liked Dot, she was covered in bites within minutes!

El Fuerte gate

It was also the base for yet another of those caravans and we were dwarfed by a huge RV.

 

 

In the state of Chihauhau are some of the deepest canyons in the world. Called the copper canyons there are seven and we decided to explore just one on the bikes.

 Los Mochis train route map

  But the map was blank- no roads just a railway line!

 

Most tourists take the early first class train but we waited for the slow second class one and persuaded the driver to take the bikes on board.

 TTR on Mexican train

Dots up at the front and Jims at the very back!

WR 250 at back of train

 

  We settled down to enjoy the four hour trip through fabulous scenery passing remote villages that rely on the train.

 looking back from train

Tunnels and bridges and loops allow the track to gain height and cross the rocky landscape. 

Temoris loops on train route

 The Temoris Loops allow the train to climb up the cliffs.

 

On the way the train waited in a siding for another train going to the coast to pass. It was a special caravan train carrying big RV's with the owners sitting out and waving like royalty.

RVs on a special train

The locals watched with amazement as the bikes were unloaded at Bahchuivo station up at 1660mtres

TTR off comes train

 

Off we went to ride along the dusty tracks hoping that there would be some signposts.

Cerocahui

The track climbed up onto the mesa at 2400mtrs above to the old town of Cerocahui founded in 1665.

Cerocahui sign

 

  Into the canyon- up to the top again-on a ferry in the dark.

At a junction we saw a sign for Choix which was our way back-this is the track that was not on any map but we were told it existed.

view down to Urique canyon

The view down into the Urique canyon was awesome-it is 1800 metres to the river and a long way down on a twisty, stony, sandy track that clings to the cliffs.

 

 

  The Hotel Estralle Del Rio provided us with a room for the night-the cold shower was bliss.

Urique street

We ate our evening meal in the Plaza cafe on the main street sitting amongst the tropical plants!

gas station Urique

Filling up with fuel at the Urique garage.

 

After a very early breakfast we explored the river that runs in the canyon and the cold water was so refreshing.

 crossing river in the canyon

The local Indian tribes who live down here travel on horses leading mules to carry goods between the villages.

local Indian travellers

 

From the river the track to the rim was visible.

track uo to rim

No way through for the bikes so it was back to Urique and then the long hard climb up to the top of the rim.

 

 

At last we reached the top and once again filled with fuel at a truck stop that resembled a pig farm!

pig sty fule stop

Ice cold coke to drink and we on our way for 150kms ride to Choix where the tarmac began.

 

It was a fabulous ride through the cooler air in the forests and we met two other bikers on a touring holiday.

two bikers from Colorado

Hubert and Charles were loaded with luggage and envied us our light bikes!

 

There were a few trucks on the track as the sun set in a spectacular  display of colours around the canyon rim.

log truck on track to Choix

At last the track began to descend to lower altitude and Dots bike regained some power so we could get along a little quicker,

 

 

Now darkness engulfed us and we rode side by side to use our small headlights to pick out the wild life. It was so easy to lose our way on the dark till suddenly we came to deep water and no road-just a ferry! ferry on track to Choix

The boatman explained this was the road to Choix and as the canyon walls were sheer a ferry had to take the traffic along the river!

 

Off we went wondering if we would have to spend the night out in the middle of nowhere-when the TTR ran out of fuel Jim had to use the emergency can from his haversack!

A pickup truck coming the other way was full of friendly locals who had spare petrol-we were saved !

Soon the lights of Choix could be seen and then we felt the smooth tarmac under the wheels.

 

  We got back to our bus at 0130 hours after almost 12 hours of riding!

Next morning we loaded up and our neighbours asked us if we had been to a night club- no we said just down into the canyons!

writing diary

Dot had a lot to write in her diary!

 

 

Leaving El Fuerte we returned to Las Mochis at the coast and set off southwards.

The coastal highway 200 would be our route for many more kilometres as we passed through towns with funny names-

5th of May,  Nueva Angleteara,  El Dique and Costa Rica!

Playa Azul pool

Some campgrounds were five star!

 

This area is all agricultural with huge fields of crops growing and  Campos where the workers live.

.fishing boats

We turned off the main road to find a small fishing harbour where we spent the night

    Into the tropics as the temperature rises and we get HOT!

 

 The Tropic of Cancer was marked but we could not stop to take a picture but here is one of a tropical beach!

tropical beach campsite

The big city of Mazatlan would be our home for a few days as we pulled into a beach campsite!

 

 

It was fun to ride the local bus into town and walk along the malecon. Carnival statue

The town was getting ready for Carnival and along the old harbour rodies were busy erecting stages and checking the sound levels-LOUD!

 

After a delicious seafood lunch at the 'world famous' Shrimp Bucket we strolled through the old town

patio at hotel

Mazatlan cathedral

The cathedral was closed-unusual-so we could only looked around the outside and town plaza.

Monument_to_life at Mazatalan

This lovely display is  'The monument to life'

 

 

As we continued south we felt that at last we were experiencing the true Mexico.

village hall

Fields full of exotic fruits, sugar cane, nuts and tobacco.

Horses, donkeys, ox carts and a big black bull on the hillside-just like in Spain!

 

 

Navigation is easy here as all the Pemex state owned garages are numbered so directions are easy!

Pemex gas station at beach

Jim has begun to collect the numbers-he wants to find the one with the lowest and highest number! SAD!

The scenery is wonderful and the colours of the roadside flowers and blossom is unbelievable.

bouganvillea

Bouganvillea in a rainbow of colours grows wild everywhere.

 

 

The roads are lined with small cafes and bars.

 roadside cook in Mexico

When you see the sanitary arrangements it might be wise to make your own lunch.

cafe loo beside cliff

 

 The busy towns are all choked with traffic and the narrow streets are full of pedestrians and lined with parked cars, taxis and small delivery trucks.

on highway 200

Driving through is something of a challenge.

 

This couple of travellers, Nicky and Simon from California stopped to chat with us at a Pemex.

 Nicky and Simon

They have done a lot of hitchhiking and cycling but now have an old Suzuki 650 that is getting them around Mexico.

 

 

Some of the towns along the Pacific coast are very big ports like Manzanillo where the containers were stacked up.

 Manzanillo port

We stopped just long enough to stock up with supplies at Walmart-just like all the Americans!

 

The Red Snapper ocean side campsite was great for a few days.

 Pacific beach

Then  we pulled into a free beach site and got stuck in the soft sand.

A friendly local came with his old Silverado and pulled us out-Thanks!

                    Beating the birds to Acapulco Bay!

 

That old saying ' it is better to travel hopefully than to arrive' was very true of Acapulco.

The campsite at Pte De Las Cueres was great-right on the beach that has fabulous sunsets-

pacific sunset at Acapulco

it seemed a million miles from the noisy, dirty city!

 

front od bus in Acapulco

Once again the local bus proved the best value and easiest way to visit the city.

Tom & Jerry busin Acapulco

more bus art in Acapulco

The buses are all beautifully painted with awesome graphics!

Acapulco_ lunch

Tourists for the day we enjoyed lunch out on a small jetty watching the fishermen launching the boats.

pushing boat out in Acapulco

Of course we had to go and watch the famous cliff divers.

diver climbing cliff

They have to climb up the cliff first to get to the rocks from which they dive into the foaming waters below.

nice dive in Acapulco

 

market at Acapulco

The city was crowded with  people and traffic so after a quick look around the market we escaped back to the campsite.

butchers shop in Acapulco

This is a butchers shop along the main highway.

 

Next morning we had to drive around the city.Even following the 'easy route' was difficult and we made a few wrong turnings

main highway Acapulco

At last we found the campsite by the airport where we rested before tackling the long, long drive south.

Always going south means it is a very hot even by 0900hours!

 

 

 At the new resort town of Ixtapa, near Zihuatanejo.

(try and say that-give in? see-wah-tah-neh-hoh!)

Playa Linda provided a nice overnight stop amongst the Canadian motor homes.

Playa Linda beach stop

But we were surprised to find a pool full of crocodiles on the beach!

got my eye on you

Progress is slow on Mexican roads as every cluster of houses has a number of topes ( sleeping policeman) to slow the traffic-they do work!

 

 

Another official tourist resort at Bahia Hautulco was a cheap overnight stop!

 The beach was dramatic as the storm clouds gathered.

Bahia Hautulco resort

Next day it was raining! WOW! we tried to think when we had last had rain-it was still hot!

raining in southern Mexico

This part of the coast is rocky and the road has many twists and turns and steep climbs.

The bus clutch was beginning to slip and Jim decided it would be better to stop and make repairs at the next big city Salinas Cruz.

So we spent a few days parked in the shade of a big awning at Hendricks where they repair broken l on buses and truckseaf springs.

repair yard shrine at Salinas Cruz

This little shrine is in the corner of the yard and once again the local people have been so friendly and helpful. Jim has managed to get the clutch plate re-lined and refitted.

It was a hot and sticky job and he was worn out!

Crossing over to the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean we visit some of the old Mayan sites.

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