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National Parks, Forests

and Monuments in Utah 

Canyons, Monolithic Spires, Vermillion Cliffs, Dance Hall Rock...etc...etc

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                   Awesome Zion National Park

Leaving Cedar City we travelled south to the Kolob Canyon in Zion National Park where even the highway was red.

Timber creek Zion NP

Red is the colour to best describe Utah!

 

Then through Hurricane and Virgin to the main entrance into Zion.

 Temple of Sinawava

Here we took the shuttle bus out to the Temple of Sinawana and walked along the river trail in the canyon.

hiker in Zion

 

river Zion

       The steep walls of the canyon were like a vertical garden with plants and grasses growing where the water seeped out of the soft sandstone.

grass waterfall in Zion 

 

 

To avoid the expensive and very steep drive up through the Mt. Carmel tunnel we took the road south into Arizona.  

Fredonia phone boxes

  In Fredonia we found two familiar telephone boxes!

 

At our overnight stop in Kanab Dot was puzzled to see this painted buffalo outside the Visitor Centre.

Film Buffalo in  Kanab

Then we discovered that    many Western movies were filmed in and around the town-that John Wayne guy went everywhere!

 

 

   The drive back into Utah was spectacular as the cliffs got steeper, the rocks got redder, the sky got bluer and the temperature hotter!

Red canyon rocks

 

The State of Utah has more than its far share of National Parks, National Monuments, National Recreation Areas and dozens of state parks.

Bryce Point sign

So here we were at Bryce Canyon NP walking along the rim at an altitude of 8,300ft !

 

 

Bryce is an unusual canyon with wind swept spires and deep cracks.

tree in Bryce Canyon

The trees down in the canyon seem to be able to grow straight out of the rock.

 

This is Sunset Point and one of Dot's favourite photos.

Sunset point in Bryce Canyon

There is also a Sunrise Point but in late afternoon the shadows were too deep to get a good photo.

 

    Next morning before the tour buses began to arrive we visited the far end of the canyon and looked out at this Natural Bridge.

Natural Bridge in Bryce Canyon

 

 

     The view from here was fantastic and we both think that Bryce Canyon is the most spectacular place we have ever visited.

view of Bryce from Natural Arch

 

The wildflowers were colourful and bright like these Indian paintbrushes.

wild Indian paintbrushes in Utah

 

Just around the corner in the Kodachrome State park we found cliffs that are multicoloured.

coloured cliffs in kodachrome SP

 

 

And hundreds of monolithic spires!

monlithic spire in Kodachrome SP

 

 

   Our base for the next few days was at the Broken Arrow RV park in Escalante.

Escalante campsite

   The facilities looked like an old western movie set!

 

This is the view at Box Death Hollow where we went riding in the Dixie National Forest.

 Box Death Hollow Utah

Utah also has 9 million acres of forest!

 

trail riders at Hells Backbone

  Along the Hells Backbone trail we met a bunch of riders from southern California.

At the bridge over the canyon we had a natter while enjoying the view.

Hells Backbone bridge Utah

 

 

A great ride through the forest down into the town of Boulder for fuel.

Boulder garage

The garage building looked familiar!

 

 

This is the unusual motorcycle shop in Escalante-Desert Doc.

Desert Doc bike shop Escalante

It is run by a guy from Chicago who we could not understand.

This is crypto biotic soil and it plays and important ecologocical role.

soil cap in Escalante

The crusts are particularly sensitive to ground disturbance and take along time to recover when stepped on-

so no walking here!

         The Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument.

                                     The GSENM is a 1.9million acre tract of land that was grabbed by President Clinton in 1996 in a bid to prevent strip mining of the vast coal deposits.

Without any human habitation and surrounded by other public lands it helped keep this part of Utah as a grown ups playground!

 

 

This is just one of the 'staircases' and terraces formed millions of years ago

50mile bench rock

50 mile rock and the Kaiparowits Plateau covered in sage brush.

Across this plateau is the famous Hole in the Rock Trail.

riding the rocks

57 glorious miles to nowhere!

 

 

The Mormon pioneers travelled along this route in search of the Colorado River and more fertile lands.

Dance Hall Rock

At Dance Hall rock they stopped to rest and held dances in the shade of this giant red rock.

 

 

This is the 'hole' that the pioneers blasted in the rock and through which they lowered the wagons down to the river below.

hole in rock

The water is lake Powell formed when the Glen Canyon dam was built across the Colorado River.

 

Visitors travelling to the 'hole' are asked to sign their names and say how they arrived.

 D0t signs register

We came by motorcycle and that morning two other visitors had arrived by boat and one by aeroplane( cheat)!

 

 On the return journey we took  the 50mile motorcycle only trail that climbed up the staircase for over 1500ft onto a bench.

From up here we had a fantastic view back down to the plateau.

 view from 50mile bench track

However we also had to get back down again at the other end of the trail!!!!

 

 

Even though we had carried fuel and refilled the tanks Dots Yamaha ran out of fuel.

refueling TTR

Luckily we were just 500meters from the highway and Jim could get to the garage and return to rescue her!

 

  We found out later that at one of the many marinas on Lake Powell it is possible to hire a luxury houseboat.

 houseboat on Lake Powell

     At around $10,000 for a week it is an expensive way to visit the hole in the rock!

              The best view in the World-so they claim!

 

   After a great drive along the scenic All American Highway 12 we turned east to visit yet another National Park( I did say that Utah has loads of them)

 

The white domes of Capitol Reef N P.

 

 

 

elephants feet in Capitol Reef NP

    These elephants feet at the bottom of the cliffs are similar to ones we have seen in many places across the World.

 

The drive through the park is below and alongside the reef giving great views of the rock formations.

Twin rocks in capitol Reef NP

 

Within the park is this old school at Fruita.

Fruita school-

Must have been very few children living here.

There are orchards full of fruit trees and the signs read 'U pick'.

Jim picks apples

 So Jim did just that and we got a bag of apples and pears!

 

 

These petroglyphs at Fremont were carved into the sandstone cliffs by the natives and some people think they depict spacemen!

Fremont petroglyphs

 

 

Leaving the park we continued eastward past this white chimney rock at Caianeville. Chimney Rock

The garage at Hanksville had its offices in a cave in the hillside!

Hanksville garage

   We relocated to the lovely shady campsite at Natural Bridges National Monument.

Kachina bridge Utah

Here water has worn away the canyons and left four bridges more like arches.

  The nine mile scenic drive has parking places where you can hike down into the canyons to get a closer look at the arches.

Sipapu bridge NM

But in 28deg heat we opted to look from a distance!

 

From the campsite it was a lovely ride south across the Cedar Mesa to Muley Point overlook.

Jim looks down from view point

A little cooler with a few clouds and rain forecast it was a perfect day for a ride-but not to see the famous view!

Just visible in the far distance are the buttes of Monument Valley!

 

The gravel  road down drops 1000ft in 3 miles and trailers, long vehicles and motor homes are not allowed.

Mokee Dugway

  It was good fun on our dirt bikes!

trail below Muley

 Into the plain the San Juan river has carved gorges another 1000ft deep.

San Juan goosenecks

These Goosenecks were just a small portion of the many deep curved gorges.

 But we had come below the cliffs to ride the trail into the side canyon.

two rocks on trail below cliffs

What a glorious track it was winding beside huge rock formations, across the creeks and through fields of wildflowers. 

Dot on trail in Utah

 

At last we arrived at the dead end where this sign advised of a protected wilderness area.

  no vehicles sign

  The GPS indicated that the highway was 3kms to the east-however the 1000ft cliff wall presented a problem so we had no choice but to ride back the way we had come along the foot of the cliffs.

 

 

With rain in the air we rode on the highway to Bluff to refuel.

Jim on Comb Trail

Then it was time to ride back along the Comb Ridge trail-an old 1880 Mormon wagon road and the other end of the Hole in The Rock trail!

 

     Into Navajo land and that famous western movie set.

Antelope on cliffs

At Hog Springs we stopped to watch an Antelope on the hill top made of rock like Swiss cheese.

swiss cheese rocks

 

 

Across the Colorado river at Hite we took the long way around the Moki Dugout and  along our route we met a few other travellers.

Stuttgart motorhome in Utah

This Mercedes 4x4 motor home belongs to Manfred from Stuttgart.

 

   While in the car park in Blanding we met this couple from South Africa who had driven from Patagonia to Alaska!

South African Toyota

These bikers from New York were just setting off on a journey to South America.

New York bikers in Utah

 

 Now we would pass rocks with names! 

Mexican Hat rock.

Mexican Hat rock

Jacobs Chair.

Jacobs chair rock

We were now in the Navajo Tribal lands.

  We drove the bus along the bumpy dirt road through Monument Valley-slowly!!

driving in Monument Valley

Dot could not stop taking photos and any moment we expected to see cowboys come riding through!

Monument Valley Buttes

Of course John Wayne made a film here!

 

Another good idea- portable toilets with GPS!

GPS loos

    Judging by the number of towns who claim that Wyatt Earp, Doc Holiday, Bud Masterson all visited to play poker or catch the bad guys they must have used a corporate jet to get about!

     Four states in one day and the Mesa Verde villages.

 

Jim as standing on the plaque that marks the meeting place of Utah, Colorado Arizona and New Mexico.

 four corners monument

Managed by the Indian tribes we had to pay to visit but spent some time talking with the local artists who make lovely pottery and jewellery.

 

 

 Back in Colorado again this time there would be no snow!

Mesa Verde National Park is a World Heritage Site and we really enjoyed our visit to these wonderful cliff villages.

Mesa Verde under the cliff

 

  Here in these canyons is the biggest collection of cliff dwellings.

Sunset Pueblo

   Sadly not much is really known about the people who lived here as they left no written records and moved away around 1400AD.

 

This is Cliff Palace, one of the biggest complexes and thought to have been used as a community centre for storage and ceremonies.

cliff palace at Mesa verde

Access to the rooms was via wooden ladders and they grew crops up on the mesa above.

 

 

 

The only way to visit the ruins is on a guided tour with a Park Ranger.

Ranger Rebbecca

Rebecca explained how they think the society was organised and was well informed and interesting.

 

climbing cleft

To get up and down the villagers climbed the cliff walls and used ladders where possible.

ladder up

Visitors have to do the same thing today!  

     A steam train through the golden aspens to Silverton.

 

We could not pass by without a visit to Durango where the old mining railway line to Silverton thrives on the millions of tourists who come to enjoy the ride through the mountains.

 Durango railway station

 

   We booked tickets for the next days train so Jim could look around the museum and engine sheds.

Durango enhine sheds

(Dot really wanted to look around the trendy shops and galleries.)

 

   The aspens were changing colour from green to gold and the view was spectacular as the special bus took us up  and over the mountain passes to Silverton.

golden aspens in Colorado

 

The trains arrive at the terminus in town and stay long enough to allow the passengers to eat lunch in one of the many cafes or shop for souvenirs.

481 in Silverton

 

 

Now it was time to travel back on the train along the river.

black smoke

On the steep gradients the engine poured out black smoke and the smell and grit reminded us of our youth when steam trains were the usual means of transport.

 

Onboard we were able to relax and enjoy a great view of the autumn colours as the train took over four hours to get back to Durango.

through the trees

 

 

Down through Colorado into New Mexico we stopped to visit another World heritage Site.

 Aztec masonary

The Aztec ruins were in use about the same time as the cliff dwellings and there is evidence that the people traded goods.

 

   However this complex had more structure and planning and the large Kiva in the central plaza has been rebuilt.

Aztec Kiva

Kivas are used for ceremonies and it is a very atmospheric place with sunlight streaming through the side openings.

  All around this area are old Pueblos or villages. where members of the native tribes live.

As most of the old villages were abandoned before the Spanish reached the area we could not understand why they used the word 'pueblo'.

It was time now to head to Albequerque for the International Balloon Fiesta!

We spend ten glorious days crewing for hot air balloon pilots!

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